Discover over 400,000 years of human history in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac. From rock shelters and caves of our more recent ancestors, some of which are adorned with the finest examples of Ice Age art in Europe, to the medieval rock-cut shelters. All within walking distance of a picturesque village in the Dordogne’s Vézére Valley. Perfectly located to make this small town a good base to explore more sites in the Valley and the Dordogne, including Lascaux , Roque Saint Christophe, and many, many castles. Excellent hotels and fine restaurants round off any visit with a truly memorable gastronomic experience.
- Thomas Dowson
- Last Checked and/or Updated 17 February 2024
- No Comments
- France, France Travel Ideas
At the base of the limestone cliffs just above the confluence of the Vézére and Beune Rivers is the town of Les Eyzies-de-Tayac. A unique combination of spectacular archaeology and local historical events has meant that from the second half of the 19th century this picturesque little town has become what many have for a long time called the ‘World Capital of Prehistory’. And for just as long, people have been coming from all corners of the globe to see for themselves the prehistoric archaeology that has done so much to shape our understanding of the history of humanity. Anyone who has visited the Vézére Valley will no doubt agree, these visitors get so much more than just spectacular archaeology.
Les Eyzies-de-tayac a Perfect Base for Exploring the Vézére Valley and Beyond
The Vézére Valley is the most popular destination within the Dordogne region of France. And the Dordogne is itself one of the more visited regions of France. People are attracted to the extraordinary archaeology and history – traces of human occupation date back more than 400,000 years, a distinctive local cuisine, and an area that is rich in natural beauty and ideal for a range of outdoor activities. Not surprisingly then, there are many towns and villages, hamlets and rural locations that offer outstanding accommodation from which to explore the area. If archaeology and history is the focus of your visit to the Vézére Valley, then Les Eyzies-de-Tayac is the perfect town from which to base your explorations.
Perhaps the most obvious reason why Les Eyzies makes for a good base is that the town itself has so much archaeology within it. France’s National Prehistory Museum is here, a number of fascinating archaeological sites – including the site where the first early modern humans were found in 1868, and two caves with some of the finest prehistoric art are just on the edge of the town. Park your car and put away the keys – there really is so much to see and do within walking distance of your hotel or B&B.
Despite the numbers of tourists, Les Eyzies is a pleasant town to stay in. Mainly because the bus loads of visitors do not stop there. The sites in the town simply do not allow for these kind of large groups. Even at the height of the tourist season, Les Eyzies by night is a delightfully quiet and enjoyable place to be.
And if you need another reason, it is centrally located within the valley. Look at any of the tourist maps of the Vézére Valley, you will find Les Eyzies more or less at the centre. And with good roads up and down the valley and into neighbouring areas, you can easily explore everything that this part of France has to offer.
Things to Do in Les Eyzies
My first visit to Les Eyzies was in 1989 when, as a young archaeology student, I toured the prehistoric cave art sites with my mentors and friends. From the end of the 1990s I started visiting more regularly, first taking my own students there, and then from about 2004 taking clients on bespoke private tours. Although I feel I know the area quite well, I still discover something new in the Vézére Valley during each visit.
Les Eyzies itself has a lot to offer visitors, but I am still frequently asked for a list of must-see sites, and sights. Such lists are always subjective, based on personal interests and tastes, and my list of ten activities you should consider is just that … mine! You will notice that the list is dominated by prehistory, but then I am an archaeologist and you are visiting the World capital of prehistory. That is the main reason for coming here. But there is more, and there is so much more beyond the town. This is just a starter for ten …
National Prehistory Museum
Given the international significance of the prehistoric archaeology in the area, it is not surprising that the National Prehistory Museum is one of the finest of its kind in the World. Besides having some of the finest artefacts from various sites, the permanent exhibition provides an extensive history of the Stone Age of the Vézére Valley. And this period is innovatively set within the wider context of the Stone Age globally, using replicas from various key sites in Europe and Africa. If you have a deep interest in Stone Age archaeology, you will easily be able to spend hours here. For others, this museum has some fascinating artefacts from a number of nearby sites in some engaging displays.
Font De Gaume
Everyone wants to visit Font de Gaume. And with good reason; the guides are quick to tell you that this is last cave in France where you can see polychrome paintings from the Stone Age. All the others are now closed to the public. Also, the paintings here are amongst the finest in the area. For conservation reasons only a limited number of tickets are available each day.
Les Combarelles
Where Font de Gaume has spectacular prehistoric paintings, Les Combarelles has hundreds of beautifully incised images of animals and humans. Often they are difficult to see, but expert guides take you on a tour that lasts about 45 minutes and point out the incredibly fine details. One of the most beautiful is the head of a feline that was incised around a natural stone nodule in the cave wall, which seems to have been specifically used to represent the animal’s eye. Entry to this cave is as restricted as it is for Font de Gaume.
Abri Cro-magnon
Abri Cro-Magnon is where in March 1868 the first burial of early modern humans was found in Europe. This is why these early ancestors of ours are commonly called Cro-Magnons. In all five skeletons were found in the deposits of the rock shelter, thought to have been buried about 28,000 years ago. Besides this site’s important role in our understanding the evolution of humanity, there is now an onsite museum with excellent interactive, multimedia displays. These displays construct the story of Cro-Magnons, the myths about them, as well as the significance of the Cro-Magnon people from this particular shelter.
Abri Pataud
This rock shelter, occupied by hunters and gatherers between about 35,000 and 22,000 years ago, has been excavated by archaeologists since the early 1950s. With some spectacular results. Guided tours start in the shelter, where visitors get to see both how the archaeologists used innovative techniques to excavate deposits several metres deep to reveal prehistoric hearths, pieces of decorated stone and bone and the remains of at least six individuals. The tour then moves on to the small museum, where just a fraction of the two million artefacts recovered from the site are on display. The museum was once a storeroom built up against a rock shelter – don’t miss the carved ibex on the ceiling!
Canoeing
Of all the outdoor activities on offer to visitors, and there are many, canoeing down the Vézére River is one of the more memorable experiences I have had. The Vézére meanders through a spectacular valley, a landscape that has been marked by people for many tens of thousands of years. Take an early trip and see the valley and its wildlife at dawn, while floating passed troglodyte shelters, old farmhouses and striking châteaux. There are a number of companies in Les Eyzies itself. They will collect you at your accommodation and take you to a drop off point, for a half-day or full-day canoeing trip – you choose. Then they will return you to your hotel.
Monday Market
Monday morning in Les Eyzies is market time, and the market here is much like most in rural France. If you are staying in self-catering accommodation, this is a great opportunity to stock up on fresh produce and regional specialities for the week. You will find everything from fresh fruit and vegetables, various cured meats, as well as local wines and pâtés. Just the range of vittles for a picnic!
Taste Regional Products
There are a number of shops in Les Eyzies that specialise in the products of local producers. The area is well known for its pâté. there ae all sorts of different kinds of pâté, and some of these shops have samples for you to taste before you buy. And there is so much more than pâté. Some of these shops are even able to arrange a visit to the farms in the area that they represent. The shop I recommend is opposite La Maison restaurant, and it is called Foie Gras Fermier, but there are other shops that are as friendly and welcoming, and have a good range of local delicacies. I single out this one, not because they have paid me in any way, but because they have been there for as long as I can remember.
Homemade Ice-cream at the Palais Des Glaces
Walking along the Avenue de la Préhistoire on a hot summer’s day, or waiting for the guided tour of Abri Pataud to begin, the Palais des Glaces is a welcome stop. If like me sorbets are your weakness, this is the place for you. But there are many, many different flavours on offer – which varies from time to time as they are all homemade. Actually, it does not have to be that hot, I am more than happy to stop for an ice-cream any time.
An Evening Meal at La Maison
There are many restaurants in Les Eyzies, but my favourite, without a doubt, is La Maison. (It also has a B&B, and I love staying there too.) There is both indoor and outdoor seating. The décor of the restaurant is at once quirky and classy, a bit camp, but very sophisticated. The outdoor area is quite magical on a warm summer’s evening. The menu is always varied, traditional dishes with a modern twist, beautifully presented using the best of local and fresh produce. Of course, I enjoy eating at some of the other restaurants too, but I would have no problem eating here each night. And I can assure you, I am not being paid to say this. Anyone I have taken to this restaurant, and many more than once, agree – the atmosphere and the food is what people expect when they think of dining out in France. I defy anyone not to enjoy an evening meal at La Maison.
Day Trips from Les Eyzies
- More cave art sites in the Vézére Valley – Grotte du Sorcier, Rouffignac and Lascaux
- Cave Art sites in the Lot – Cougnac and Pech Merle – with Pech Merle two hours away, and Cougnac half way between, this is not a day trip for everyone.
- There are more castles in the area than you could ever hope to visit on any trip. My three favourites, that ae easily do-able in a day are Château de Beynac, Château de Castelnaud and Château de Marqueyssac
- Troglodyte villages, such as La Madeleine, Reignac Fortified Mansion and Roque Saint Christophe – bear in mind Les Eyzies was in fact one of these so-called troglodyte settlements.
- For those who need a bit more than old bones and pictures, head to Périgueux for some Roman archaeology – Vesunna is a must! And, the Périgord Museum of Art and Archaeology has the skeleton of the Neanderthal found at Le Regourdou near Lascaux.
Create Your Own Travel Lists & Itineraries
The ten sites and activities listed above are in, or within walking distance of most of accommodations in Les Eyzies. For the day-trips out of the town you will definitely need private transport. The listed sites and activities, as well as those included in the day-trip section, are positioned on the map below.
You can use this map to create your own travel lists (such as places you have been to, places you would like to visit) and an itinerary for your Dordogne visit. These can also be shared with your friends and on social media. To do this, you will need to create an account (free of charge). To see how this is done, watch our Using the Itinerary video on YouTube, or read the Using the Itinerary page. If you already have an account, you will need to login to use these features. Once logged in, click on the map markers for the sites you want to add to your lists and itinerary, and you will see the buttons to do this with.
For more ideas and suggestions, sites and museums to visit, see our Guide to the Cave Art of France, our Regional Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine, and our France Travel Guide.
Things to do in Les Eyzies
Les Eyzies Accommodation
Given the popularity of the town, you will not be surprised to learn that there are a number of hotels in Les Eyzies, from 4* to some that are not even classified. I have stayed in most of them, and have my favourites. The reason I have tried so many is because I used to lead my own cave art tours, and Les Eyzies is my preferred base for the area. Consequently, I have come to know the various hotels, many restaurants and other tourist service providers quite well. Many of my choices on this page are backed up by people who have come on these tours.
Two hotels I use frequently for many reasons, but mainly because my tour clients also liked them, are the Hostellerie du Passeur and the Hôtel des Roches. Both are 3* hotels, but are quite different. Hôtel des Roches is a much newer hotel and is just on the edge of town with large gardens in which there is a swimming pool. They serve wonderful breakfasts. Hostellerie du Passeur is more central with great views over the Vézére River. It also has an exceptional restaurant (not just for hotel guests) and a swimming pool.
One of my favourite hotels in Les Eyzies, also a 3*, is the characterful Hotel Le Moulin de La Beune. The hotel building is one of two that once formed an old mill; the actual mill with its functioning mill-race is now the restaurant (see below). The hotel and restaurant are set beside the Beune River and surrounded by many established trees providing an incredible atmosphere, day and night.
There are two very good 4* hotels in Les Eyzies: Hôtel le Centenaire and Les Glycines. Personally, I prefer Les Glycines – it has a wonderful setting, a spa, a magnificent Michelin starred restaurant for evening meals, and a bistro for breakfast and lunch.
There are other options for accommodation in Les Eyzies. For those who are looking for self catering options, I have stayed in and am happy to recommend La Maison Carrée and Les appartements d’artiste de la Villa du 15 – from the same creative mind that gives us La Maison restaurant. They also offer a B&B option: La Villa du 15 – Chambres indépendantes. The self-catering apartment is on the first floor, and the bed and breakfast rooms are in the very spacious attic space. For those who prefer a self catering gite outside the town there are many available – follow the Booking.com link below and look at what is available on the map view.
Directly opposite the town, on the other side of the Vézére River but still within walking distance of the centre of town, a great looking campground provides space for those who prefer camping and caravanning.
Or browse the hotels, B&Bs and other accommodation on Booking.com and choose one you like the look of.
Les Eyzies Restaurants
The Dordogne is as well known for its cuisine as it is for its prehistory. And the many Les Eyzies restaurants bear testimony to this. Some of these restaurants have been around for as long as I have been visiting the area, others have changed hands. Honestly, I have never had a bad meal in Les Eyzies. In fact, I enjoy an extended stay in the town as I then get to try those restaurants that are not my more regular haunts. My three favourite restaurants for evening meals are, in order of preference, are La Maison (for the ambiance, character and menu), Le 1862 in Les Glycines (for the wonderful six course meal) and Au Vieux Moulin (for the setting and the wonderful cuisine).
Down from the main level of the town on the banks of the Beune River, in what was once the village’s mill is now a hotel and restaurant. Although a 3* hotel and a good restaurant, the wow factor here is very definitely the setting. Whether it is a hot summer’s evening and you get to dine out on the terrace, or a cooler spring evening and you take your meal in the characterful dining room, you are in for a gastro-treat. The menu not only has a wide range of dishes, including vegetarian options, it changes regularly.
For a truly magnificent gastronomic experience, dining experience, the ‘1862’ restaurant in Les Glycines is a must. If you are not staying in the hotel, and you are looking for something truly special, I do recommend a walk to the northern edge of the town for a meal in this one starred Michelin restaurant.
How to Get to Les Eyzies
Les Eyzies is just over 500 kilometres south of Paris and about 155 kilometres east of Bordeaux, and is well served by national roads and autoroutes, and there is also a train station in the village.
Les Eyzies With Your Own/hired Transport
If you have your own car, getting to Les Eyzies is very easy. From Brive-la-Gaillarde on Autoroute 20 (E9 if you follow the international E-road network), les Eyzies is about an hour drive down the Vézére Valley, passing through some wonderfully picturesque farmlands and rural villages.
Alternatively, you could get a train to Bordeaux or Brive-la-Gaillard (there are fast, direct trains from Paris to both destinations), and then hire a vehicle and get yourself to Les Eyzies. If I am not going into Les Eyzies with my own vehicle or with a hire-car coming from somewhere else in France (Paris or Marseilles), I hire a car in Bordeaux.
Getting to Les Eyzies by Train
Having your own transport once in Les Eyzies is not essential as there is so much to do within walking distance. In any event, there are a number of reasonably priced, private transport providers that will take you to sites and attractions beyond the town. Getting to Les Eyzies by Train from Paris can take as little as 5 hours. There are no direct trains, but you can get there with only one connection, but most journeys require two changes. Trains with connections to Les Eyzies leave from Montparnasse and Austerlitz stations in Paris – Austerlitz offering the faster routes.
Depending on such factors as when you book, what time you are prepared to travel, whether or not you require a flexible ticket, you can get a Paris – Les Eyzies return, second class ticket for just over €100. Once in Les Eyzies, the station is just on the edge of the town, opposite Abri Cro-Magnon. You are able to search for a suitable journey and buy a ticket online, go straight to the SNCF website.
Other Essential Services and Facilities in Les Eyzies
Les Eyzies has everything you could need: a post office, a number of banks with external automatic tellers, a supermarket, 24 hour, self-service laundromat (next to the entrance of the supermarket), a few bakeries for fresh bread and pastries, a news agency that carries a small range of international newspapers … and many souvenir shops.