Whether you are visiting for a few hours as part of a shore excursion or a few days, this 20 minute read sets out the fascinating history of Cagliari in 47 historical places and landmarks. Gianluca is postgraduate archaeology student at the University of Cagliari he knows his city well. This is a perfect read for anyone planning a trip to Cagliari and looking for some background or recommendation for what to see and do in the Sardinian capital. Use the 47 sites mentioned here as the starting point for creating your own itinerary, including a map and detailed directions. If you are looking for more practical tips and advice, see our Cagliari City Guide, as well as our Sardinia Travel Guide.
- Gianluca Pitzeri
- Last Checked and/or Updated 15 September 2023
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- Sardinia
Have you ever returned from a trip, perhaps from a place you really cared about, and felt a small regret for having missed something while you were there? Unfortunately, it happens to me a lot. Whether due to haste or difficulty obtaining information, I am sometimes disappointed when I find out about places I have not seen or stories I have not known in my wanderings. Knowing the broad outline of the history of the places I visit helps me to create stronger bonds and memories.
Cagliari is one of those places with a huge history, from prehistoric times to the present day. Its charm is more than millennial and is capable of captivating anyone: Punic and Roman ruins merge with the urban fabric, as do the ramparts and medieval walls of the historic centre. Beneath the modern settlement lies buried the medieval city of Santa Igia, no longer visible and for that very reason to be told. Nineteenth and early twentieth century palaces fill the wide streets, and the scars of World War II bombing remain fresh in the historic quarters. Walking through its streets is like journeying through time, from its origins to the present day.
The city occupies a vast area stretching over seven hills, a nice fact common with Rome: Sant’Elia, Tuvixeddu, San Michele, Castello, Monte Urpinu, Monte Claro and Bonaria. Each one is linked to an event or a historical period.
Prehistory
Traces of the first humans to settle in the area, between the 6th and 5th millennium BC, are preserved on the Sant’Elia hill, south of the city and in in close proximity to the sea. Among the places still accessible are:
The Grotta del Bagno Penale, a natural cave, partly collapsed, named after the nearby residence of prisoners forced into forced labour during the Savoy period.
The Domus de Janas of San Bartolomeo, a typical Sardinian rock-cut, prehistoric tomb of which, unfortunately, only the final part remains.Â
At both of these sites artefacts were recovered that date to the 4th millennium BC. They are in an area spared by urbanisation on either side of Via Calamosca. Despite being unprotected, both are visitable but inconvenient to reach. The part of history that seems to be missing from Cagliari is the Nuragic era. In reality, it is simply no longer visible. Even though the large-scale urbanisation of the entire territory has erased its most obvious traces, Nuragic artefacts have been found in numerous archaeological excavations undertaken around the city.
Phoenicians & Punic Karaly
Cagliari is one of the Sardinian cities that developed with the arrival of the Phoenicians on its shores around the end of the 8th century BC. They probably landed in the lagoon of Santa Gilla, which would have been easy to defend as well as an ideal place to come ashore. Unfortunately, there are no surviving traces from this period for visitors to see. All we have is material recovered from various archaeological excavations near Santa Gilla.
At the end of the 6th century BC, when Sardinia entered the Carthaginian sphere of influence, the Phoenician settlement was transformed and changed its appearance. The Punic city of the 5th-4th century BC, known as Karaly, expanded eastwards from the lagoon of Santa Gilla.
The necropolis of Tuvixeddu is truly a gem of the Mediterranean Punic period; it is the largest known necropolis. Between the 6th and 4th centuries BC, the Punic people dug many shaft tombs in the limestone rock on the hill. Today, they are part of a municipal park in which designated paths allow everyone to get up close and appreciate them.
Karales - Roman Cagliari
After the Romans conquered Sardinia in 238 BC, the city became known as Karales. The heart of Roman life centered around what is today Piazza del Carmine, then the location of the Forum. Inscriptions from carved stone tell us that the forum was surrounded by temples, grain stores, the praetorium, the courthouse and at least three thermal baths. Although much of Roman Cagliari has been bult on, there are still a few Roman sites worth visiting.
The Roman Amphitheatre, of which the rock-cut structure and several chambers remain, was built between the 1st and 2nd century AD in the valley of Palabanda, near Via Buon Cammino. It is one of the most spectacular Roman sites mains on the island. However, it can only be seen from the outside (more about visiting Cagliari’s Roman amphitheatre).
The Grotta della Vipera is located in Via Sant’Avendrace, at the foot of the Tuvixeddu hill. It is a tomb carved into the rock, which once, along with many others, lay on the side of the main road leading out of the city. The site tells of the love affair between Atilia Pompitilla, who was buried there, and her husband, Lucius Cassius Philip. Two snakes, symbolising fidelity, were carved on the forehead, while 12 poems in Greek and Latin were engraved on the walls.
The remians of Villa of Tigellio, now surrounded by a large fence, at the foot of the Botanical Garden. The name is misleading because, at the time of the excavation, archaeologists thought they were dealing with a single large dwelling, identified as the residence of Tigellio, a famous Roman poet and musician and friend of Julius Caesar. It is not a single villa, rather three domus and the remains of a bathing area, dating from between the 1st and 2nd century AD. The district once housed the richest dwellings in the city.
The archaeological area of Sant’Eulalia is one of the most interesting in Cagliari. Underneath the church of the same name is an underground area that makes it possible to follow the evolution of the urban fabric from the 4th century BC (the height of the Punic period) until the 19th century. The features that stand out most are those of the Roman phase, such as the paved road, and a number of columns and porticoes.
Christians, Vandals & Byzantines - St Igia
The increasing adherence to the new Christian religion marked the last centuries of the life of the immense Roman Empire. The many martyrs buried in Cagliari led to the establishment of places of worship and cemetery areas still preserved today, albeit with many differences from their origins. With the collapse of the Western Roman Empire in 476 AD, Cagliari, like many other settlements throughout the empire, was left exposed and vulnerable to the Vandals. The Vandals controlled the island until 533 AD, when control passed to the Byzantines.
The Basilica of San Saturnino, where the Saint’s remains were found in 1621, is an excellent example for understanding the evolution of a Christian area. Saturninus was martyred in Cagliari in 304 AD and venerated immediately. He was buried in an area possibly already used as a cemetery, and the church was built on it between the mid-6th and early 7th century AD, during the Byzantine era. Renovated several times over the centuries, today, it is one of the most important early Christian monuments in the entire Mediterranean area.
Byzantine domination led Sardinia towards progressive isolation that gave rise to the territory’s original political and organisational system: the giudicale.
From the beginning of the 8th century, the coastline became the target of Saracen pirates. The population was forced to move to more sheltered areas to escape the constant danger. The Roman Karales was progressively abandoned, and in its place, on the shores of the Santa Gilla lagoon, between the 8th and 10th centuries, Santa Igia was formed, the capital of the Giudicato di Cagliari, one of the four Sardinian giudicati. Unfortunately, almost nothing has survived from this settlement, buried by the modern city.
There are, however, some buildings connected to Santa Igia that have survived.Â
The small Romanesque-Gothic church of San Pietro dei Pescatori, built between the 11th and 13th centuries – but with foundations that date back to the earliest Christian times in Sardinia. It is accessible via a small courtyard on Viale Trieste.Â
The Castle of San Michele stands on the hill of the same name. It was probably built around the 10th century to protect the entrance to the city. The castle is within a beautiful and scenic park. Today, it is part of Cagliari’s museum system, hosting various exhibitions and events.
Pisans & Aragonese
Sardinia, and Cagliari, was of strategic value to the republics of Pisa and Genoa, because of their desire to control commercial routes between Italy and north Africa. In 1216, to better protect these interests, the Pisans built a fortress that would become the Castello, the heart of modern Cagliari. In 1258 the Pisans and their Sardinian allies attacked and destroyed Santa Igia, which has sided with the Genovese. Survivors settled around the Pisan walled town, creating the districts of Villanova, Stampace and the Marina. During the 13th century, the Pisans erected a number of new buildings to establish their power. The two finest examples are:
The Old Town Hall, seat of the Town Hall from the 13th to the 19th century.
The Cathedral of St Mary and St Cecilia, one of Cagliari’s central places of worship and most visited. Following the destruction of Santa Igia, the Pisan cathedral, already dedicated to Santa Maria, was also dedicated to Santa Cecilia, to whom the main church of the razed city was dedicated.
When, in 1297, Pope Boniface VIII granted the King of Aragon, James II, the right to invade Sardinia and Corsica, the Pisans began the construction of defensive structures that continue to be symbols of the city to this day: the towers of the Elephant, San Pancrazio and the Lion, completed in 1324.
In preparation for their attack on Cagliari, the Aragonese built a fort on the hill of Bonaria, of which only a tower has survived, being difficult to make out as it was incorporated into the convent of the Mercedari Fathers, next to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Bonaria. The Pisans were expelled from Cagliari, and Sardinia, in 1326, when the Aragonese took possession of their territories. From that date until 1708 Cagliari is under Spanish rule and influence, and the city’s inhabitants were all but completely displaced by Catalan people. A change that is reflected in the architecture.
The Palazzo Viceregio, next to the Cathedral of Santa Maria, housed the Spanish and Savoy viceroys from 1337 to 1847.
The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Bonaria has been the patron saint of Sardinia since 1907. It was built from 1325 onwards, becoming a vital place of worship for the city and the island.
The church of San Giacomo, one of the 4 oldest in Cagliari, was built in the Gothic-Catalan style in the district of Villanova. The construction of the bell tower to its left was carried out a century later.
The church of Sant’Eulalia was built in the Marina district around 1365 and dedicated to the patron saint of Barcelona. It is here that the underground archaeological area and the Museum of the Treasury are located, displaying furnishings and sacred works related to the parish and beyond.
Spanish CÃ ller
With the birth of the Kingdom of Spain in 1475, Cagliari and Sardinia also suffered consequences of the new jurisdiction. A policy of increasingly strong repression towards those who professed a religion other than Christianity began. In CÃ ller, the name by which the Spaniards called the city, the Jewish community suffered severely. They lived in the quarter called ‘Juharia‘, inside Castello, between Via Santa Croce and Via Stretta. In 1492, the decree of Granada left them only two choices: convert to the Christian faith or abandon the territories of the Kingdom. Almost everyone chose to abandon the city, giving up their possessions.
The Basilica of Santa Croce, built in 1530, was built to replace the Jewish Synagogue, demolished at the end of the 15th century.
The 16th century saw a significant modification of the city’s defensive structures, which had to be adapted to the new fighting techniques with canons and firearms. The projects were entrusted to the Cremonese architect Rocco Capellino and completed by his successor, Jacopo Fratino. They rearranged the walls and bastions, leaving an imprint on the city that is still visible today.
The Bastion of Santa Croce is one of the most iconic works and among the most beautiful places to admire Cagliari, especially at night.
Some of the most important historical events are commemorated in several plaques and epigraphs around the city, in its centuries-old traditions and the search for the bodies of saints from the 17th century.
The epigraph on the Old Town Hall recalls the visit of Emperor Charles V of Habsburg in 1535, when near Cape Malfatano he had assembled a powerful fleet that would sail to Tunis to wrest it from the Ottoman forces.
In 1618, the Shrine of the Martyrs was built inside the Cathedral of Santa Maria in Castello, under the presbytery. Its purpose was to house the relics of martyrs that were found in abundance throughout the city, including the churches of San Saturnino and San Lucifero.
In the crypt of Santa Restituta, the remains of the African Saint, brought to the city in the 5th century AD, were found during the 17th century. The bishop ordered the construction of an altar to house the statue of the saint and the renovation of the crypt. Above it, at the same time, the church of the same name was built.
From around 1652 to 1656 a plague that had broken out on the island hit Cagliari hard. The citizens of Cagliari had made a Vow, still kept in the historical archive, asking Sant Efisio to end the epidemic. In return, they would undertake to celebrate a feast in his honour every year. Thus, in 1656, the first procession for the miracle took place. In 2023, the 367th feast was celebrated, and the procession is the longest religious procession in Italy. On 1 May each year, the Saint is transported from the church of Sant’Efisio in the Stampace district to the area of his martyrdom in the church of Nora. The Saint is returned to Cagliari on 4 May.
At number 32 Via Canelles, among the streets of Castello, there is an epigraph recalling the assassination of the Marquis of Camarassa, Viceroy of Sardinia. The crime occurred in 1668, with events and dynamics worthy of the best detective novel. The story is worth investigating if you find yourself strolling along this street.
Kingdom of Sardinia
At the start of the 18th century, the territories of the Spanish Crown were shattered by the War of Succession. After being violently bombarded by the English fleet, Cagliari was occupied in 1708 by the Habsburgs of Austria, who conquered the entire island. Their presence on the island was noting more than a brief interlude that ended in 1717 when the Spaniards regained possession of the Cagliari. Three years in the Treaty of the Hague, Cagliari was turned over to the Piedmontese dynasty of Savoy.
Among the events that followed, one in particular deserves mention, Sa die de sa Sardigna. On 28 April 1794, the ‘Sardinian revolution’ broke out. The people of Cagliari, exhausted by the Savoy government’s policies, started the revolt. They broke down the doors of the Palazzo Regio, captured the viceroy and all his officials – forcing them to leave the island. This act of revolt was repeated throughout the island. And for a few years Sardinia governed itself. Although short-lived, but the historic day is celebrated on 28 April every year throughout the region.
The Savoy period left its mark in several historical areas and palaces in the city:
The present Cittadella dei Musei, location of the Archaeological Museum and others, was redeveloped and chosen as the site of the Royal Arsenal in 1727. The beautiful neoclassical gateway, Porta Arsenale, into the area was built a century later.
The new seat of the University was built in the Castello district between the Elephant Tower and the Bastion of Saint Remy.
Piazza Yenne was built, named only in the second half of the 19th century after the viceroy who ordered its construction. Initially, the name was Piazza San Carlo, in honour of King Charles Felix. In the centre of the roundabout is a statue depicting him in the guise of a Roman soldier.
Among the many important historical palaces, specific mention must be made of Palazzo Boyl, commissioned by the Marquis of Putifigari and built in 1840. During its construction, it incorporated the Lion Tower, clearly distinguishable from the rest of the palace because it stands out on the left side. Today, it dominates the panorama in front of the Lion Gate, proudly displaying its splendid neoclassical façade.
On the hill of Sant’Elia, the Fortino di Sant’Ignazio was built in 1795. Its purpose was to defend Cagliari’s coast from French assaults, but it never came into operation. A few years later, it was used as a shelter for the people with contagious diseases; but during the Second World War it was given a strategic role for enemy sightings.
The Antico Caffè at the Bastion of Saint Remy is still one of the most renowned historic coffee houses in Cagliari. It was in fact the Savoy who introduced coffee, and cafés, to the island. Opened as a bar in 1838 by Lazzaro Canepa from Genoa, it became a café in 1855 under the name Caffè Genovese. It was a very elegant establishment that welcomed artists and important people such as Gabriele D’Annunzio, Grazia Deledda, and D.H. Lawrence. In 1996, the café took its current name. Definitely a place to include on your itinerary for a coffee break or a snack.
From the Kingdom of Italy to the Present
The year 1861 marked the beginning of the Kingdom of Italy. Cagliari was removed from the list of the Kingdom’s strongholds. Parts of the medieval and Spanish walls were dismantled and replaced by wide avenues, linking the historic quarters with newly built areas. At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, many iconic works of the city were realised.
The Palazzo Civico, the seat of the municipality overlooking Via Roma, opened in 1907.
The Bastion of Saint Remy, a splendid white limestone structure connecting the Castello district with those of Villanova and the Marina, was built at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. At the top is the Umberto I panoramic terrace, which has spectacular views of the city. The Umberto I Gallery is known to locals as the ‘covered promenade’. It was built with the Bastion to adequately connect it to Viale Regina Elena. It is a symbol of Cagliari’s Belle Époque, a venue for banquets, balls and conferences for high society. The gallery, which can be visited daily, preserves traces of the medieval fortifications removed to construct the new works.
The Hotel Scala di Ferro was the beating heart of Cagliari’s bourgeois life between the 19th and 20th centuries. It was built over the Bastione di Monserrato, once part of the Navy’s defence system, with the historic entrance visible on Via Torino. D.H. Lawrence stayed here briefly in 1921, whose visit is commemorated by an plaque on the Bastion via Regina Margherita. The famous English writer came to Cagliari with his wife, attracted by Sardinia’s wild and untamed landscape. He recounts his journey in the pages of ‘Sea and Sardinia’, which offers a fascinating glimpse into life in the 1920s. An interesting fact about the Palace: it stands on a burial ground used since Roman times. Between the 18th and 19th centuries, it became the cemetery of the nearby military hospital and was renamed Bastion of the Dead.
As with the rest of Europe, the darkest period was during the Second World War. Cagliari, after Naples, was the Italian city hardest hit by the bombing of the Allied forces. Around 80% of the city was either destroyed or badly damaged between 2 June 1942 and 13 May 1943. Over 2,000 people were killed but 40,000 people lost their homes. The Civic Palace, the Bastion of Saint Remy and many churches in the historic quarters were torn apart by the bombs. The memory of these tragic events is scattered around the city, among ruins, tunnels and defensive forts that still survive:
The whole district of Castello shows the scars, which still look fresh. Squares that once did not exist and the ruins of buildings can be found everywhere. The Piazza Marcede Mundula, now a scenic spot next to the Palazzo Regio, is a perfect example. You can see on the high wall bordering the square to the north signs of the San Placido Palace, which collapsed in 1943.
During the bombing raids the inhabitants sought shelter in underground places, such as the Crypt of Santa Restituta, the tunnels of the San Giovanni di Dio hospital or the Don Bosco Shelter-Tunnels (180 metres of tunnels probably built by the Piedmontese, with the entrance in Via Don Bosco).
Although built in 1934 on Sant’Elia hill, near the Fortino di Sant’Ignazio, the C-135, the first anti-aircraft battery in the Cagliari area, came into operation. The site is still well preserved and can be reached by parking in Via Faro, walking from there for about ten minutes.
Inside the San Michele cemetery is a military memorial dedicated to the memory of the fallen, with the graves of British and German soldiers who lost their lives around it. In 1984, a monument was erected to remember the civilian victims of the 1943 bombing, called the Tree of Life.
The Second World War was matched by a difficult period of recovery, which brought the inhabitants face to face with the consequences of the war and the bombing they had suffered. People who had abandoned the city, taking refuge with relatives who lived far from the affected areas, no longer found their homes at the end of the conflict. Many historical places in Cagliari became makeshift dwellings, including the rock cut chambers and tombs of the Roman amphitheatre and the necropolis of Tuvixeddu. In the post-war years, emigration was substantial, young people leaving the island for northern Italy or European countries such as France and Germany. Despite this, Cagliari grew. Sardinians abandoned the countryside and poured into the city, and from 110,000 inhabitants in 1951, the population of Cagliari rose to 180,000 in 1961.
Like any city, today’s Cagliari is the sum of its historical periods. It is not always straight-forward to read and find your way around, but when you do, walking through its streets and monuments gives the experience a whole new meaning. Changing times was followed by rearranging neighbourhoods, new functions, expansion and destruction. Each place is linked to one or more specific historical event. The bombing of World War II certainly altered the city, but without eliminating the traces of its rich thousand year plus history.
Add Cagliari to Your Itineraries & Travel Lists
If you are planning a trip to Sardinia, Italy and/or Europe, you can create your own travel lists (such as places you have been to, places you would like to visit) and an itinerary for your visit. These can also be shared with your friends and on social media. You can see how this is done by watching our Using the Itinerary video on YouTube, or reading the Using the Itinerary page.
Cagliari
Cagliari, the capital of the Italian island of Sardinia, is a city steeped in history. With roots dating back to the Phoenician and Punic era, this coastal gem boasts a rich tapestry of historical sites, including a well-preserved Roman amphitheatre and the medieval Castello district of typical ancient walls and narrow streets. Beyond its historical charm, Cagliari offers breath-taking views from its panoramic terraces, pristine beaches and a vibrant culinary scene that draws on the island’s many flavours. Whether you travel for history, nature or gastronomy, Cagliari promises a memorable Italian getaway.
Archaeology Travel Writer
